Yellowstone National Park: Part 5. Grizzlies, coyotes and pronghorns – oh my!

Note: this long posting is likely nicer to see on a laptop than a phone!

During my first spring visit to Yellowstone National Park in 2016, we encountered black bears (Ursus americanus) throughout the national reserve. When a mother bear with her little cubs was spotted, park visitors stopped often to watch the playful young, especially when they were practicing tree climbing.

During my 2022 visit, we did not see black bears but had the good fortune to see quite a few grizzly bears (Ursus arctos horribilis). Some were quite light in color, while others had dark fur. A mama grizzly and her cub were the first mammals we saw (due to my friend Joan’s sharp eyes!) and we must have seen at least one or two every day. (If not a live bear, there were plenty of them featured in artwork in Gardiner.)

Rangers were often present at our sightings or arrived shortly after we did. They mostly warned humans to keep considerable distance from the bears, but we also saw them shooing the bears away from roads when many people were passing by.

(The bears below were shooed back up the hill; the white spots on the photo are snowflakes.)

The “hump” on the grizzlies’ shoulders helped us identify them since black bears lack this feature. Also, when walking on all fours, the grizzly’s rump is lower than its shoulders. The impressive grizzly claws are also much longer than those of black bears.

Sometimes we spotted the grizzlies grazing far away in fields. A few times, we had the good fortune to spot a mother bear with her young cubs.

One mother in particular gave us wonderful views as she wandered about with her triplets. That was lucky for us as grizzlies have one of the lowest reproductive rates of North American terrestrial mammals.

They are not sexually mature before the age of 5 years. After mating in the summer, implantation of the embryo is delayed until the female hibernates. She could miscarry if she does not ingest sufficient calories and nutrients during the summer. She also will not mate again until her cubs have reached three years of age.

One of the most interesting foods that the grizzly bears eat is the adult form of the army cutworm, called the miller moth (Euxoa auxiliaris). This moth has the highest known percentage of body fat of any animal, comprising up to 72% of its body weight! The moths fly from low-lying farmlands to crevices in mountain slide rocks, where the bears go in late summer to dig them out. It’s estimated that a grizzly can eat up to 40,000 moths in a day, thereby ingesting up to 20,000 calories.

One of the grizzlies’ competitors for food, particularly carcasses, are the coyotes (Canis latrans). These beautiful canids are unfortunately detested by many people, as related by Dan Flores in his informative book Coyote America: A Natural and Supernatural History.

At one point, we saw numerous cars parked along a road and stopped to see what everyone was observing. There was a coyote feeding on a large carcass that had already been partly consumed.

The coyote was engrossed in getting some meat off the bone, which was apparently not an easy task. These canids usually eat deer and smaller prey such as little mammals (rabbits, hares, rodents), birds, reptiles and amphibians, and invertebrates. It was not entirely clear to me what this prey had been.

A fascinating coyote behavior is that they sometimes collaborate with badgers to dig up rodents. They even appear to like these fierce predators as people have seen coyotes licking a badger’s face or laying their heads on the badger’s body. A decorated jar found in Mexico dating back to the years 1250-13oo showed this relationship.

Unfortunately, although the coyote figures prominently in Native American/Indian folklore, the US government has initiated and supported efforts to eradicate the species altogether. From 1947 to 1956, about 6.5 million coyotes were killed in the American West. However, these intelligent animals have managed to survive and eventually spread to the eastern United States (where they are now again unfortunately detested by considerable numbers of people).

In Yellowstone, the larger ungulates on which the predators such as bears, coyotes and wolves feed include elk and moose. As mentioned in a prior blog, elk (Cervus canadensis) can be seen up close in Gardiner, the town at Yellowstone’s northern entrance, where they wander through the streets and rest in people’s yards. A more melodious name for them is wapiti, used by the Shawnee and Cree peoples. It refers to the animal’s white rump.

To me, the elk appeared quite large but they “only” measure about 4-5 feet in height. The males’ antlers can grow up another 4 feet, however, giving them a much taller appearance.

The males also have another interesting characteristic — their bugling, which is used to attract mates and mark their territories. This sound is the loudest call of any members of the deer family. The males produce it by roaring and whistling simultaneously!

Because elk prefer colder weather, they are more visible to Yellowstone visitors in the late autumn, winter and early spring. We saw females and young elk in town and spotted the males out in the valleys. They are very social animals and one of the largest herds (about 11,000 members in 2022) is known as the “Jackson Elk Herd”, which migrates between southern Yellowstone and the National Elk Refuge in Wyoming.

The other large, hoofed animal which we glimpsed one day was a moose (Alces alces). This ungulate is the largest member of the deer family, reaching a height of 6 feet (1.8 m) and a weight of up to 1,000 lb (450 kg).

We saw a male — identifiable by the antlers which were just beginning to grow — as he grazed in a marshy area beside the road.

Besides eating tree and shrub bark, leaves and twigs, they enjoy eating aquatic plants in ponds and streams. This can have a downside for them. Sometimes, they unknowingly eat snails while foraging and the snails can carry parasitic brain worms.

In Gardiner, we also often saw mule deer (Odocoileus hemionus). They can be distinguished from white-tailed deer by their large ears, which measure about 75% of the length of their heads!

They also have a white tail with a black tip, while white-tailed deer lack that feature.

I found them to have a sweet face.

The final ungulate that we had the pleasure to see at Yellowstone were the fast-footed pronghorn antelopes (Antilocarpa americana).

These small-hoofed creatures are not as fast as cheetahs but can sustain their speedy gait for a longer period of time, reaching speeds of up to 60 mph.

The pronghorns not only travel rapidly; they also may travel for long distances. During the winter of 2011, monitoring of a pronghorn herd showed that they had achieved the longest terrestrial migration in the continental USA (not counting Alaska).

While both sexes have horns, those of the female pronghorns are mere bumps, while the males display unique backward-pointing horns that grow up to 12 inches long. (The one grazing below had impressions in the fur on its back that looked like claw marks to me!)

According to the Natural Resources Conservation Service of Montana, “Pronghorns existed in North America at the same time as predators like the dire wolf, saber-toothed cat, and American cheetah, all of which are long extinct. Scientists believe the pronghorn’s excellent vision and extreme fleetness are adaptations to survive these super predators.”

It’s fascinating that so many of the animals living in Yellowstone National Park have been in this area for thousands of years. An upcoming blog will feature smaller mammals after taking another visit to thermal attractions in the park. Before that, I’ll post a couple blogs about some of the wildlife I’m seeing here at home. 😊

Yellowstone National Park, Part 1. Wonders and delight

Yellowstone National Park (YNP), which is located mostly in Wyoming but also in Montana and Idaho, became the USA’s first national park on 1 March 1872. This year, the National Park Service was gearing up to celebrate Yellowstone’s 150th “birthday” and many visitors were expected.

Unfortunately, in June, storms led to catastrophic flooding of the park. Historic water levels caused mud and rock slides, leading to large-scale destruction of park infrastructure. Many road sections were destroyed and the town of Gardiner, at the North entrance, was devastated just as residents were welcoming the first summer visitors. Fortunately, significant progress has been made by the National Park Service throughout the summer and fall and entry into the park through the North and Northeast Entrance roads was restored in late 2022.

Wikimedia. Yellowstone flood event 2022- North Entrance Road washout. NPS/Jacob W. Frank

In late May, just before this episode of climatic devastation occurred, I had the very good fortune to travel through Yellowstone with my good friend, Joan. I’d visited YNP before, but this was my most enjoyable journey so far. I’d now like to share with you some of the sights we were privileged to see in a series of blogs (sometimes interspersed with some North Carolina wildlife sightings).

Yellowstone, which has a name based on an Indian word, is an area full of wonders and delight. You find yourself traveling through a large volcanic caldera — an immense depression left in the earth after a volcano erupts and then collapses in on itself. You are also in an area with the largest high-elevation lake in North America, a 670-mile waterway which is the longest free-flowing river in the Continental USA, and a spot where you are half-way between the equator and the North Pole. This area has had human occupants for at least 11,000 years according to archeological findings at nearly 2000 documented sites. Tragically, the settlers of European backgrounds and US authorities did all they could to drive the American Indian occupants away. Starting in 1886, when the US Army managed the Park, the US Cavalry patrolled it for 32 years to prevent the 27 modern-day associated tribes from hunting and gathering there. Finally, today, the Indian occupants are being rightfully acknowledged and highlighted in YNP educational and informational materials.In 1926, George LaVatta, Organizational Field Agent, led a group of Indians in costume into YNP. Bureau of Indian Affairs, U.S. National Archives and Records Administration

To start off the blog series, I’ll introduce you to the place where Joan and I stayed: Gardiner, Montana, a town of only some 800-900 residents. The town comprises mostly hotels, shops and eateries. During the COVID pandemic, a couple restaurants burned down and were not replaced. We were there during the week before high season began and only a few of the remaining restaurants were open.

Neither Joan nor I were impressed with the cuisine on offer, so we began getting take-out at the local Gardiner market, a store with a nice broad selection of foodstuffs, some souvenirs and friendly staff who still served customers during a power outage.

While tourist season hadn’t begun, locals did show artwork and signs welcoming visitors.

                           

It was fairly easy to find places as there is only one main road with a limited number of side streets. A couple churches are prominent on the main drag, and one usually has some elk and/or or mule deer occupying space on their grounds.

Look well: there is an elk sheltering under the roof overhang.

  

There were warning signs here and there, reminding us of precautions for COVID and maintaining distance from wildlife, but this was disregarded in town.

   

Having walked through the backstreets to photograph birds, I can attest to the fact that it is not uncommon to turn around and find a deer or elk a couple feet behind you or moving just in front of you.

The Gardiner Catholic priest does attempt to prevent humans from taking up parking space.

A few of the houses along the main road had made some attempts at gardening, protecting plants from browsing mammals and being imaginative with rocks.

  

 

A little lending library was a nice touch, too.

As is the case in the Park proper, a great deal of care is given to avoiding trash on the ground. In 1970, open-pit garbage dumps were abolished in YNP, along with the nightly “bear shows” where visitors sitting on wooden bleachers watched bears eat garbage!

The local people do care about what is happening in the area and made this clear with signs.

     

In the park itself, visitors are warned not to move things around, like this geodetic marker.

$250 fine or imprisonment for disturbing this mark.

Our motel manager was friendly and told us about how the pandemic had made business difficult. In the past, many younger and retired people came to Gardiner and YNP to work in the motels, gift shops and other venues during the high season. I met some nice retired folks and students who had come for this reason (note the traveling home that someone had brought along).  The manager mentioned that there were now far fewer workers, however, and she and her son had been helping clean the motel rooms due to staff shortages.

When entry into YNP through the famous Roosevelt Arch was closed because of the June flooding, Gardiner took another post-pandemic blow. Hopefully, the town residents have been able to recover and can look forward to seeing more business in the seasons to come.

Next up: Visiting our first group of thermal features.